Autentico Italiano© by John Axelrod Contact

where to find the best italian food outside Italy

Autentico à la Parisienne

Where else can you meet that most Parisian of celebrities?

At Mori Venice Bar, it is not unusual to run into Johnny Halliday with his family. It happened to us one night, in what became a paparazzi moment while in search of authentic italian in Paris.

Only in this case, we were the paparazzi. Hiding in our banquette, we could watch while we ate. I asked whether Mori was simply a hip restaurant for the likes of Halliday & Co. or was it really autenticoitaliano?

Indeed it was both. The first surprise was what came on the table. A mountain, really, a mountain, of prosciutto, peeled upwards to create a cone of porc. That it was so sweet and tender, zero fat and less salt than usual, encouraged our enthusiasm. Next came a true Napolitano spaghetti vongole, pungent and full of clams, and cotelleto d'agnello, cooked perfectly. Soft small gnocchi al ragu were a novelty and even taglioni alla sepia was on the menu, a reminder of the Venetian theme in this Philippe Stark designed restaurant.

The wine list was audacious, with all the familiar super tuscans, amarone and barolo. After settling for an Amarone dal forno, it was time to simply enjoy the surroundings. The crowd got bigger. Music started playing. Johnny went for a smoke. I saw my chance. He turned out to be a great guy.

I also remember meeting another great guy, a gondolier in Venice, who took us out for a ride, and who let me steer the boat, and I got to enjoy the view as a Gondolier. Mori Bar took me back to Venice. Johnny kept me in Paris. And the photo looks great.

Mori Venice Bar
2, rue du Quatre-Septembre
75002 Paris
01 44 55 51 55